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Wild Mussels

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Many of us along the coast anxiously await October 31st, when the annual quarantine on wild mussels is officially lifted. Then we dust off our fishing licenses, slip on our rubber boots, grab a bucket and pry bar, and head for the low tide rocks to harvest one of nature's succulent gifts to the beachcomber chef.

California Mussels

If you haven't eaten mussels before, they have a mild, delicate flavor all their own, not like the stronger flavors of clams and oysters. The wild mussels along our coast are the California Mussel (Mytilus californianus) and differ from the commercial Blue Mussel (Mytilus edulis) by being slightly tougher, but if you keep to the medium-size ones you almost can't tell the difference. As hors d'oeuvres, their mild richness carries without a dipping sauce. They make an excellent addition to mixed seafood chowder. Of course, there's mussel stew, mussel risotto, or my favorite, mussel pasta.

WARNING: Under certain conditions, wild mussels can be harmful to your health, even fatal.
For our protection, the California Department of Health Services operates a shellfish monitoring program where wild mussels are tested regularly. There is an annual quarantine period from May 1st to October 31st, when most outbreaks of Paralytic Shellfish Poisoning (PSP) have occurred. If a problem appears outside the quarantine period, an alert is issued. Radio, T.V., and newspapers are notified. Signs are posted at ocean accesses. Also, there is the "Shellfish Information Line" which has a recorded message of the current conditions, and should be referred to before you go out, even during the "good" season. Call toll free at 1-800-553-4133 or 1-510-540-2605.

How do mussels become dangerous? They filter the sea water for their diet of micro-organisms. The problem comes with the bloom of certain micro-organisms, occurring when light and temperature are just right. Some species of microscopic creature contains a trace of poison that in itself may not be enough to matter to a creature the size of a human. And though the mussel remains unaffected by the poison, it stores it in its flesh in increasing doses until it can become bio-concentrated to lethal levels for humans. When the bloom goes away, the poison levels in the mussels dissipate and they become edible again. Some people mistakenly believe the bloom known as "Red Tide" to be the source of the problem, but the organisms responsible for PSP can bloom without changing the color of the water, and so, water clarity is no guarantee.

The lesson here is
(1) Obey the quarantine order, and
(2) Call the Shellfish Information Line even in the "good" months.

If you're worried about getting poisoned by wild mussels, by all means, don't eat them. You can buy commercially raised mussels any time of year without concern because they are constantly monitored.

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